Green Turtle Cay, the Abacos - Many
of the residents of the Abacos today are descendants
of the British Loyalists who chose to flee
the United States after backing the losing
side in the Revolutionary War. These immigrants
started an agricultural experiment in the Abacos,
but the thin soil and infrequent rain shattered
their hopes for decent yields. When the plantations
planned for Great Abaco essentially flopped,
many of those early settlers moved to the offshore
cays to work in boatbuilding and fishing.
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The occasional wreck that ran aground on the shallow reefs off the Abacos
provided early commerce for the islanders as well. Abaconians would go
out to rescue the luckless mariners and commandeer their cargo. By the
law of the day, the cargo was sold in Nassau, with a certain percentage
of the receipts paid in government tax; the largest portion went to the
wreckers, and a pittance to the original mariner. It is said that the
natives of Hope Town so depended on this source of livelihood that they
sabotaged the construction of the Hope Town lighthouse in the 1830s.
Today that famed candy cane lighthouse still serves as a beacon for those
who ply the sea, but perhaps is more significant as one of the premier
tourist attractions for the out islands of the Abacos.
Until a system of roads were built to facilitate logging on Great Abaco
in the late 1950s, the Abaco cays were the island's centers of commerce
and hubs of activity. Hope Town on Elbow Cay was even the seat of the
Abaco islands' Commissioner until 1960.
Private boats were the main form of interisland transport, but an enterprising
local by the name of Marcel Albury saw a need for a sort of water-taxi
service to facilitate travel between the many small islands, and Albury's
Ferry Service was born. Seaplanes used to land twice a week at Green
Turtle and Man-O-War Cays, but once the international airports opened
at Marsh Harbour and Treasure Cay, it became far more practical for tourists
to arrive by jet and then travel to the outer cays by water taxi. Now
there are several water taxi vendors serving the out islands of the Abacos.
The island ferry was my form of transportation during my recent visit
to Green Turtle Cay as well. I took a ferry from Great Abaco to Green
Turtle and actually stepped off at the dock at Brendal's
Dive Center. But that's because I was already in the Abacos. Someone
originating in the US would fly to Treasure Cay, take a short taxi
ride to the ferry dock, and then either go directly to Brendal's Dive
Center or whatever accommodation might have been booked.
New Plymouth on Green Turtle Cay once considered a hub
of the Abacos, nearly as influential as Hope Town. Like
the other small cays, boatbuilding was a prime industry,
although for a short time pineapple plantations flourished.
Today New Plymouth is a quaint fishing village with New
England-style saltbox houses lovingly painted in pastels
seemingly transported from another era. For anyone interested
in scuba diving in Green Turtle Cay, all paths lead to
Brendal's Dive Center.